10 Best Hikes in Hong Kong: Treks & Trails for All Abilities

The Best Hikes in Hong Kong

Hong Kong may be better known for its electric skyline, imposing skyscrapers and sky-high rent, but did you know that 75% of the Fragrant Harbour is actually countryside? Having called Hong Kong my home for the past five years, I love the city but I also love to get out of it! So, here is my list of the best hikes in Hong Kong, which offer the most scenic and breathtaking views of HK’s epic coastline, lush hillsides and pretty little islands.

 

  1. 1. Dragon’s Back

Best Hikes in Hong Kong 1
By Roger Price via Wikimedia Commons

Difficulty level: 6/10   Starts: Shek O Road near To Tei Wan village   Finishes: Big Wave Bay (Tai Long Wan) Beach

The undulating Dragon’s Back is easily accessible from the city, winding around the east side of Hong Kong Island, and offers beautiful coastal scenery without being too strenuous. As one of the most famous hikes in Hong Kong, you probably won’t find yourself hiking alone, but you will definitely be able to see why it’s so popular. Read more

So That History Does Not Repeat Itself: Phnom Penh, Cambodia

So that history does not repeat itself

Three pictures taken in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. Three places that were difficult to visit, but too important not to miss. Let me share the stories behind them…

Sometimes tourism is more than just a holiday in a nice resort, cocktail with curly straw in hand. More than being brave and backpacking solo around Southeast Asia, posting lovely photos of exotic places on Instagram.

Travel educates you about the world in a way a textbook and the Internet can’t. And part of that education is learning about the history of a country or city to discover what shaped it into the place it is today. Read more

How to Spend the Perfect 24 Hours in Luang Prabang

24 hours in Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang might be one of the most gorgeous places I have ever laid eyes on. From the sloping roofs of gold Buddhist temples to artfully plated French-influenced cuisine to the swirling coffee colours of the Mekong, I was utterly entranced. Partly by circumstance and partly my terrible planning on my part, I only had 24 hours to enjoy this city.

My flight had landed late so it was already dark when my pickup driver arrived (he was late, drunk and had tried to take someone else to my hostel by mistake so had had to turn around and come back to the airport). I was tired, sticky in my travel clothes and grumpy about my pickup-gone-wrong when the car started weaving through the streets. Read more

Burma Budget and My Myanmar Travel Tips

Burma Budget and my Myanmar Travel Tips Cover

The first stop on my solo backpacking tour of Southeast Asia was a 10-day stint in Myanmar, historically known by the British as Burma. I’d heard amazing things from other travellers who had visited, especially of the stunning Bagan temples at sunset and lively Yangon.

I did a few double-takes at my guidebook, which was unfortunately five years out of date, as a lot has happened to the country in that time and is happening right now. I found lots of information online to help me out with budget and travel tips, but things are progressing so fast that I’m now adding my voice to the mix to help others prepare for their experiences in Myanmar on a backpacker’s budget. Read more

10 Days in Myanmar | Travel Diary

10 Days in Myanmar Cover

Day 1 – Hong Kong to Yangon, Myanmar

I left Hong Kong early in the morning, catching the A11 to the airport and waving goodbye to Rob out of the window. I had that feeling in the pit of my stomach again, like this trip was both a brilliant and terrible idea. Seven weeks in Southeast Asia alone, starting with 10 days in Myanmar? Was I insane?

Ideas of chickening out and jumping off the bus were tempting, but I managed to stay on until Terminal 2. I checked in, went through security and immigration, and messaged Rob and my family just before boarding.

On the shuttle to the plane I heard my name being called; it was a friend of a friend who happened to be on the same flight! Of course, the world is big but it is also small (and Hong Kong even smaller). I was thankful for a travel buddy for that first push over the edge. There was no turning back. Read more

Happy Paddlers : Dragon Boat Races 2016

Dragon Boat Team 2016

 

There is nothing like a dragon boat race.

The roar of the paddlers calling time, the drummer, the pounding of paddles pulling through the water, an undulating dragon skimming across the top of the ocean…

Boasting a 2,000-year history in Southern China, dragon boating stems from traditional fishing and Chinese folklore, which came together to form the Dragon Boat Festival – a public holiday and a day full of races in rivers and oceans all over Asia.

Some say that Dragon Boat Festival is held in honour of an honest poet who was killed by an emperor. Others say the man was a political rebel who drowned himself after growing disillusioned with those in power. In both cases, fishermen went out on the water, threw rice and pounded the surface with their paddles to scare away and distract the fish from feasting on his body. Lovely. On the other hand, many people say that the sport was simply thought up by competitive fishermen…

Dragon Boat Team getting ready to paddle
Remember ‘DHL’ – Deeper, Harder, Longer!

No matter how dragon boat racing first came about, what all present paddlers can agree on is the ferocious rowing power needed, the butterfly-symmetry of partnering rowers in the longboat and the deep rumble of the drum keeping the rowers in time; the dragon’s heartbeat.

And the best place to compete in Hong Kong is at Stanley. Though you have to sacrifice your public holiday morning lie-in for a 5am or 6am start, the races are worth it. The beach is packed with pumped teams in matching jerseys and enthusiastic spectators vying for the best view.

This year was my fourth dragon boat season as a paddler, and my second time competing at Stanley. In the morning sun, the longboats are lined up ready on the beach, painted with brightly-coloured scales. The dragon’s head fixed at the front of each boat has its nostrils flared, moustache blowing in the wind with its eyes bloodshot and bulging out of the sockets! The tail is flicked out at the rear, a thrashing spike that will trail foam and fizz in its wake when the race begins.

My first dragon boat race at the 2012 Deep Water Bay Regatta (front on the right):

Our first race of the day was at 8.45am. After warming up on the beach, we headed to boat number 13 and got in position. Women raised their hands for the officials to check we had the minimum number competing for the mixed category before we paddled out to the racing area.

In all the excitement and with the butterflies for the first race of the day fluttering in my stomach, I had forgotten my gloves and worried that I would blister my hands on the splintered wooden paddle. It’s not unheard of for paddles to snap mid-race.

Once at the starting line, our drummer held onto the roped life buoy to keep us in position and we placed our paddles ready on the sides of the boat. We listened to the adjudicators, moving forward or back as instructed.

The klaxon sounded and we were off on our starting sequence: three long, deep strokes, then a step up to a slightly faster three, then a speedy ten turning from the shoulder and a final ten at our fastest speed to get the boat going. Then we settled into our pace calling ‘Ready, and, REACH!’ but lost our timing in the transition. Paddling at the front, I could feel the boat lurching out of time with our strokes, but in such a quick race there is no time to correct it.

At Stanley, you race towards the beach, and when the nose of the dragon touches the finish line – that’s your time. However, there are only a few metres to stick the oars in the water to hold the boat and slow it from racing speed to stop it hurtling onto the sand, which is packed with other teams, race officials and spectators.

We looked up at our friends watching from the vantage point above us and they showed us six fingers. We had come sixth. It was a respectable place and put us firmly in the next heat. We were impressed with our time of 1min 17secs (the water was calm with very little chop), but we knew we could have been faster and our poor timing had slowed us down. Then again, any faster and we could have been fast-tracked to the top tier of teams where we would have struggled to compete.

 

Dragon Boat Team Photo
What’s our goal? GO FOR GOLD!

The next race wasn’t until 1.40pm, so we returned to the junk and refueled, watched the GoPro video taken by our drummer and strategised how to improve for the next race. We were aiming for a time of 1min 10 secs and entry into the gold plate final. Last year we had come fourth in the silver plate, and our goal this year was to reach the gold level.

This time we were even more nervous as we paddled up to the starting line in boat number 8 (a lucky number in Chinese culture), our focus on the best result this time. There was no room for error. Clouds had covered the sun and the water wasn’t as calm as before. Perhaps that dream time of 1min 10secs would be out of reach today.

The adjudicators took forever asking boats to move forward and back before announcing ‘attention’ and everyone put their paddles up in unison.

‘Go!’ he called and we pulled back on our oars, starting the sequence again.

‘Stop! Stop!’ came faint calls over the shouting and drumming as slowly everyone came to realise it had been a false start. The adjudicator had called ‘Go’ but the klaxon hadn’t sounded. As one of the first teams to realise this, we didn’t have far to paddle back, but most teams had raced for the finish line full of energy, and then had to paddle back further too. As they paddled up out of breath, we knew we had an advantage now too.

IP Global Dragons Dragon Boat Team paddling out
What a drag.

When the klaxon sounded again and we started our sequence, we were slicker and transitioned better into our steady rowing pace. We had agreed that the rowers in the middle were to call out the timing to keep everyone together.

The lightest paddlers should always be at either end of the boat with the heavier ‘engines’ in the middle to give the boat its power. However, again, we got out of sync as the pace was too fast for everyone to keep up. But when we crossed the finish line we saw that we had come second – an incredible feat considering we still weren’t paddling at our best. And, most importantly, we had reached our goal – we were in the gold plate final.

Then there was another agonising wait as our next race was scheduled for 5.07pm. Rain fell in the afternoon and the races were delayed. We had also begun to crash, tired from the early start and the bursts of sudden adrenaline. Some napped, others had a drink to take the edge off and calm nerves. We warmed up and waited on the beach, practising our timing on land by calling out the strokes.

This time, we decided, everyone would call out every stroke together. It was a risk because we would be wasting our much-needed breath, but we knew that the key to speed was in perfect coordination, not in strength or power or how fast you could paddle. As long as one person’s oar is pulling while someone else’s is stuck in the water, the boat is being held back and the strokes are being wasted.

We paddled out in the evening sun, and this time I wasn’t nervous. It was our last race of the day and we wanted to enjoy it, and it was bittersweet as I knew this would be my last dragon boat race in Hong Kong. We called out good luck to the boats either side of us and stuck our oars in deep in the water ready for the klaxon.

As the race started and we pulled into the starting sequence, I could barely control my breath. The start was perfect and as we called out each stroke to transition into our regular pace we were going faster than we should have been but the adrenaline helped us sustain the speed and, at last, we were in perfect time. Watching the video back (see below), the symmetry is incredible. We couldn’t have paddled better.

My eyes were focused on my partner and the paddler diagonally in front of me – the technique used to ensure we were all flawlessly in sync. But behind them I could see the boat next to us pulling up alongside ours. We were neck-and-neck for the whole length of the race.

As we approached the final straight we called for power over the stroke timing, ‘REACH! REACH! REACH!‘ pushing through the final few strokes to try and get our dragon over the finish line first.

As we crossed the line and pulled on our paddles to hold the boat, we weren’t sure whether to celebrate. Had we won? Had we placed? It was impossible to tell. Our drummer said she thought we had come second, but it had been very close. Everyone was still in good spirits, splashing each other in the water and celebrating with beers on the beach.

Our Gold Plate Final Race (second from front, on the right):

We waited what seemed like forever for the results to come in. It had been a photo finish and the judges needed to confirm the final times. When the results finally came through we were astounded – we had come sixth out of thirteen boats, but we were only 0.8 seconds behind first place! In a race so close that half of the boats had finished within the same second, we had practically come joint first (and that’s the story we’re sticking with!)! Not only had we reached our goal of ‘going for gold’ and getting into the gold plate final, we had finished with a respectable place and paddled the best race we had ever rowed.

There were more beers back on the junk and celebrations throughout the evening. We had come so close to the top spot, but no one was bitter or had any regrets.

Four years ago, I participated in my first dragon boat competition at the Deep Water Bay Regatta, where the Chatteris Dragonfruits had just been happy not to come last in their hot pink jerseys! This year I had competed at gold plate level at Stanley and come millimetres away from first place. You can’t complain about that!

Sadly, next year I won’t be around in Hong Kong to compete in the races again, though I’m hopeful to find a dragon boat team (or start a dragon boat team) wherever I end up next. I never thought I’d consider myself to be a rower, but that first race four years ago sparked a passion for the sport and I hope I can continue to row in the future too.

As our junk headed for Aberdeen harbour, we saw a pink dolphin jump alongside our boat. Critically endangered, Hong Kong’s pink dolphins are rare to see even off Lantau where they usually live, let along south of Hong Kong Island next to the coast. It seemed like a sign and the perfect ending to a wonderful day and a wonderful five years in Hong Kong.

IP Global Dragons Dragon Boat Team 2016
The IP Global Dragons, 5th Runners Up, Gold Plate, Stanley 2016

IP Global Dragons, it has been a pleasure. Next year, I expect to see you all at cup level!

 

Photos by IP Global Ltd

My Month with a Smartphone

My Month with a Smartphone

Anyone who knows me well knows my phone.

Going on five years, it’s been my trusty and reliable companion (and often my only ally) in my battle against the technology takeover. A nostalgic #throwback to my first ever week in Hong Kong, my museum-worthy Anycall holds a special place in my heart. And aside from it’s personal significance, it texts, it calls, it has a battery life of over a week (what stamina!), it has a calculator and a torch (which has come in very handy on camping trips when everyone else’s phone dies before sundown) and that’s all I have ever needed it to do.

I prided myself on the fact that should the Terminator-style digital apocalypse happen, I would be the sole survivor whose voice would not be identified by the ‘Big Brother’ surveillance conspiracy that is Siri. And I was far less likely to be kidnapped by terrorists or cyborgs because they would not be able to track me by hacking into Google maps or figure out my every move via my social media accounts. #blessedlife

Smartphone - Telephone
Hello? This is 18th century calling, they want their telephone back.

It was a cost-effective anti-theft device. Nobody wanted it, so I didn’t need to be careful. I once left it in a H&M changing room over a weekend and it was still there when I came back for it. I felt assured by the fact that if the phone broke, or if I lost it, it would cost me less that HK$100 to get a replacement.

Technology didn’t own me. And I felt a prideful surge of hipster-esque rebellion whenever I took out my phone in front of new people and heard them audibly gasp in horror.

I watched, smugly, as couples sat opposite each other in restaurants, scrolling through their Facebook feeds instead of speaking to the person next to them. I sucked my teeth as I watched those taking Insta-photos of their meals, crafting hashtags and monitoring ‘Likes’ rather than eating. On the MTR, I would look up and judge the hundreds of commuters playing Candy Crush before sticking my nose back into the pages of my book.

When people turned up late with the excuse of ‘But I sent you a message on Facebook?’, I snapped that they could have, and should have, called me, or y’know actually turned up on time instead of relying on technology to let everyone know of their lateness. When friends and family complained that it would be so much easier and cheaper for me (but mainly for them) if I was available via Whatsapp rather that texting, I reminded them that it wasn’t cheaper because one has to buy a smartphone, a contract and pay for data, which far exceeds the cost of a few texts. When my boyfriend didn’t reply to a question because he was too busy swiping through Sky Sports News on his phone, I literally whacked it out of his hand.

Smartphone - Instagram
Be honest, how long did it take you to arrange all that stuff?

I would never be like that. I would not be a zombie. I would not give Apple any of my money. I would not cave to peer pressure. I would not prioritise my online presence over my actual presence. I would not become a smartphone wanker.

And then the unthinkable happened.

My boss came to me one day, sick of being unable to communicate with me via the work Whatsapp group, and gave me her old iPhone 4. I’m told that this is an old model that is already considered old fashioned by smartphone snobs the world over, but to me it was a Flux Capacitor. I had no choice. It was finally time to give in and join the virtual world.

And, reader, I admit that I kinda liked it.

My arrival into the world of Whatsapp put me back in contact with old friends who sent messages just to say hi, or mostly ‘Welcome to the real world!’. I could take photos, listen to music, call, message, do the social media thing, Skype, Facetime, calculate, calorie count, shine a torch, and anything else (because, apparently, there’s always an app for that) all in one place. Not that I need to explain that to you, reader, as you’re probably scrolling through this blog post on your smartphone now, right?

And Instagram! Good lord, Instagram! What I had been missing out on there! As a travel junkie, I found a new source of pleasure in flicking through endlessly gorgeous and wanderlust-y pictures by National Geographic, Lonely Planet and all my travel-savvy friends that I have met these past five years. And I shared my own snaps, serotonin rushing to my brain every time someone tapped on the ‘heart icon’ below my pics.

Smartphone - Selfie
Wait. Lemme take a #selfie

When I went to Japan, I was able to share photos that I’d taken with people back home instantly, rather than waiting several weeks before I could be bothered to take them off my camera and put them on Facebook.

My family created a Whatsapp group so that we could keep on top of everyone’s news and organise ourselves better (and make fun of each other, obviously, that’s important too).

I downloaded language apps, and started practising my Italian again.

When inspiration hit – whether it was writing, travel or otherwise – I typed up my thoughts using the notes function without having the problems of ‘Shit, I don’t have a pen,’ or ‘Argh, no paper, I’ll just have to scrawl this on my arm,’ or the dreaded, ‘Where did I put that scrap of paper with the thing on that was going to change my life?’.

But, sadly, it wasn’t all eggplant emojis and Ludwig Instagram filters.

I got in trouble for ‘seeing’ messages and not replying, because Whatsapp and Facebook Messenger like to tell people when you’ve seen something, and when you were last online. I also had one conversation with three different people via three different apps playing a twisted game of ‘he says she says’ because they didn’t want to talk to each other, but didn’t want the others to know that they didn’t want to talk to them. I despaired that the battery never lasted a full day, and that sometimes it would just die with 50% battery, no warning, and then my morning alarm wouldn’t go off.

Smartphone - Video
Why watch the game when I can video it and share it online to let people know that I’m watching the game?

And, even though I had promised myself that I wouldn’t be that person, I admit that I got distracted looking at perfect pictures of skinny Pinterest and Instagram girls effortlessly posing in flawless make-up and intricately braided hair. Why didn’t my hair look like that when I braided it? Why did my belly go outwards when theirs went inwards? Why didn’t I look cute with a lace bra, dark purple lipstick and a cute geometric tattoo?

I stalked people that I hadn’t thought about in years, swiping through their photos, wondering what they were doing now and then feeling bad about myself when I saw they were happier than I thought they would be, or happier than I am.

Yes, I know that people’s online personas are fake. Yes, I know that I was looking at the highlight reel, not the full picture. Yes, I know I was being ridiculous, but somehow I still let myself get sucked in. Obviously, I had social media accounts before I got a smartphone, but this was a digital overload for an analog girl like me.

Then, it got worse.

After three weeks, I accidentally knocked the phone off the bathroom sink and the bottom part of the screen smashed on the floor. It cracked into a spiderweb pattern. It wasn’t enough to break the device or render it unusable, but I started getting tiny pieces of glass crumble on my fingertips whenever I tried to scroll or type.

After four weeks, I went to the Philippines with friends and the phone was stolen. I was as careful as I could be, keeping it in a tightly zipped bag, with my hand on the bag at all times, but it was a futile effort. Two of us were robbed at the same time one night, the thief quickly snatching the phones out of our pockets and bags without us even noticing until it was too late.

When I realised my bag was unzipped and the phone was gone, I was disappointed in myself. Why hadn’t I been more careful? What would my boss would say? Did I need to change my passwords to everything? How would I contact people while I was travelling? What if something went wrong?

And yet there was a small part of me that felt vindicated. I had been right all along about smartphones – they were trouble. It was foolish to put all your eggs in one basket, and carry around something so personally as well as financially valuable.

Smartphone - Food
But you could be eating right now?

Although the thief had bolted, I looked on the ground on the off-chance that either myself or the robber had dropped the phone. Then, I saw a Polaroid photograph on the ground. It had been taken earlier that day by a Korean couple we had met on the beach, who were excited to take photos with (using their words, not ours!) ‘handsome’ and ‘beautiful’ foreigners. They were lovely people, it had been a great day and it was a hilarious memory that I’ll always cherish. The Polaroid was a classic. It didn’t require a filter.

Back in Hong Kong, I came crawling back to my Anycall, like a sheepish ex-girlfriend begging for forgiveness. ‘Will you give me another chance? I promise I’ll never cheat on you again.’ I told my boss what had happened, and I calculated that the excess on my travel insurance would potentially cost me more than the money I would receive in compensation, and there was a risk that my claim wouldn’t be accepted anyway because I had no proof of purchase for the phone. (Thanks a lot insurance, what exactly is the point of you?)

Not without a sense of irony, my trusty Anycall started playing up too. I couldn’t hear people when I called them, and the buttons (buttons!) were stiff and didn’t always work. To add insult to injury, a tiny beach pebble from Boracay got stuck in the headphone jack of my old-school iPod. Meanwhile, my old-school digital camera was also giving up the ghost and, besides, the photos that it took weren’t as good quality as the iPhone’s.

I was faced with a dilemma. A true #firstworldproblem. I was no longer a smartphone virgin, and I now needed a replacement phone, iPod and camera. It made sense to cave and buy myself a smartphone. Plus, I would be lying if I said I didn’t miss the ease of use of the device; the ability to communicate with loved ones around the world at the touch of (well, not buttons) a touchscreen, especially considering that I live abroad and travel often.

So, yesterday, I bought a secondhand iPhone with my own actual money.

It’s not one of these fancy 6+CS things, it’s not new, I still don’t plan on taking selfies unless it’s ironic, and I still haven’t lost my pride enough to step into an Apple store, but it’s an iPhone nonetheless. And this time, I’ll do it properly. This time, I’ll be a grown-up. This time, I’ll learn from my mistakes.

I will not get sucked into a social media spiral looking at unattainable beauty that I know is orchestrated, photoshopped and sponsored by big brands.

I will not stare at my phone for hours on end, and I will not unnecessarily spend time on my phone when I am with actual flesh-people.

I will not value my online presence over my actual presence.

I have learnt my lesson:

There are no smartphone wankers, only wankers with smartphones.

What’s the beef with Kobe?

Kobe, Japan

Is there anything to see and do in Kobe that doesn’t involve its famous, delicious beef? Essentially, where’s the beef in Kobe?

Well, it turns out that beef isn’t Kobe’s only cash cow. There’s a lot more to see in Kobe to beef up your trip and give you enough to do until the cows come home…

Ikuta Jinja Shrine

Ikuta Shrine, Kobe, Japan

Our first stop was the Ikuta shrine, a short walk from the Sannomiya train station. The bright red torii gates were cool and although it isn’t as grand or significant as other shrines in Japan, it was very charming and a lovely place to just walk around. Plus, we were lucky enough to gatecrash witness a wedding taking place, with the wedding party in traditional Japanese dress, which was amazing and interesting to watch. I also got my fortune told at a booth at the entrance, telling me how excellent my fortune is, which was nice! No beef there…

Nunobiki Falls

Nunobiki Falls, Kobe, Japan

Just behind Shinkobe station, the Nunobiki Falls are a short walk uphill and well worth the steep climb. I couldn’t believe I was only a few minutes from the city, and would loved to have done the full hike up to the herb garden if we’d had time. There are four waterfalls in total, though the most impressive are the Odaki falls. It was quite hypnotic watching the water and a really peaceful and tranquil place to sit and contemplate, even with the other visitors around. The waterfalls have inspired many Japanese artists and poets, and it’s easy to see why. Here’s my personal favourite that I’ve found, taken from the Tales of Ise:

It looks as though someone

Must be unstringing

Those clear cascading gems.

Alas! My sleeves are too narrow

To hold them all.

And not a steak in sight…

Kitano-cho

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Of all places, Kobe is actually well-known for it’s big expat community, many of whom settle in the Kitano-cho area. This district was really good for walking around and just looking at the mix of buildings, from English pubs to the mansions of ex-diplomats! Didn’t see any beefs…

Hakutsuru Sake Brewery

Sake in Osaka, Japan

There are several sake breweries in the Nada district, but one of the most-visited is the Hakutsuru Sake Brewery for it’s museum and sake tasting sessions. Not that I would know, as we arrived a little too late and the brewery was closing so we didn’t get a chance to peek inside and see how sake was made. However, just walking around Nada was an experience – you could really smell the sweet sake fragrance in the air (and no beef)!

What does sake taste like? – I was expecting something similar to Korean soju, which I find unbearably strong, but actually the sake I tried was very sweet. I had it served ‘cold’ (room temperature), though you can also have it hot. I can’t say I liked it, but I sipped away happily and the small jug and tiny bowls it came with were pretty cute.

The best way I can describe sake is that it tastes like Christmas. I’m not sure if it’s because of the sweet and nutty taste, or whether it’s because Christmas is the time of year when you drink all the random liquors in the drinks cabinet…

Nankin-machi (Chinatown)

Nankin-machi, Chinatown, Kobe, Japan

Coming from Hong Kong, we weren’t too fussed about visiting Chinatown, but thought we would pass through on our way to the waterfront. However, we were proved wrong! The street food there was amazing, from Peking duck wraps, to steamed buns, dumplings, fresh fruit… Hong Kong could definitely learn a thing or too from Kobe’s Chinese street food culture, and we couldn’t help but grab some assorted foods on sticks (the Japanese love their random foods on sticks!) and snack away, drifting through the streets of vendors. Ok, there was definitely some beef here.

Harborland

Harborland, Kobe, Japan

Sadly, by the time we headed out to Kobe’s waterfront it was pouring with rain, so we took shelter in Chinatown and when it didn’t hold off, we had to admit defeat and head home. However, from what we heard from other travellers we met, it’s definitely worth a visit for a walk on the beach and a view of the Kobe Port Tower all lit up at night. Here’s a picture that we didn’t take because we weren’t there (too distracted with our Kobe beef, obviously…).

Himeji Castle (Himeji)

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Ok, so it’s not in Kobe, but coming from Osaka it makes the most sense to take the train to Himeji first, then stop in Kobe on the way back, which is easily doable in day if you lave early enough (we did them on separate days, but wished we’d squeezed them into one instead).

Himeji Castle, the largest and most-visited castle in Japan, is pretty impressive and it’s expansive gardens and grounds are very beautiful to walk around. The castle is also lit up at night, so we stayed until after dark to see it. However, though it was great to visit and a must-see attraction that many people say is the highlight of their trip to Japan, we secretly preferred Osaka Castle (shhh!).

Kobe beef

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Ok! So we tried the beef! We had actually resigned ourselves to not being able to afford to try to proper stuff because we’re talking thousands of yen for steak at one of the certified restaurants. But in fact, after stuffing ourselves in Chinatown, we came across a burger van that was selling Kobe beef burgers. It had a little gold beef trophy outside so we figured there was a chance it could be legit Kobe beef, or if it wasn’t then at least it was beef in Kobe, which is something.

What is Kobe beef? – To count as true Kobe beef, the Wagyu cattle have to be raised in a certain way that includes a diet of sake and daily massages. Drunk and massaged all day? Sounds like a good job to me. The meat is marbled with fat, which gives it a strong flavour. In fact, it’s so good that Kobe Bryant is named after it (that’s an actual fact – google it).

Verdict – Still no idea whether what we had was true Kobe beef, but regardless it tasted amazing!

Holy cow! So, it turns out that there is more to Kobe that just beef! So, next time you’re in Kansai, especially in Osaka for a few days or more, take the bull by the horns and visit Kobe!

For more bloggings on Japan (without beef puns), read An Osaka Day, Told Through The Medium Of, Japanese Haiku, and watch this space for more blogs on Nara, Kyoto and Tokyo.

Travel – For anyone wondering about travel details, the train from Umeda station in Osaka to/from Himeji cost us around 1,200 yen each way (it takes over an hour and a half, stay on until the end of the line, Himeji station) and the train from Osaka-Namba to/from Kobe Sannomiya station was 400 yen each way and took 45 minutes. We didn’t have the JR pass, but if you do then you can get faster and better value trains if you’re tripping around Japan for a few weeks. Google maps show train times and prices, which is really helpful, and Japan Guide was an invaluable source of information during our multi-city trip.

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