Tucked away in the dramatic peaks of the Caucasus Mountains, the remote town of Mestia is one of Georgia’s best-kept winter secrets. Mestia offers a unique blend of history, adventure, and alpine beauty that feels worlds away from the usual tourist trails.
Whether you’re carving fresh tracks on the slopes of Tetnuldi, warming up with hearty kubdari in a family-run guesthouse, or simply soaking in the views of jagged, snowy peaks, Mestia in winter is pure magic.
In this guide, you’ll find everything you need to plan your winter trip to Mestia — from how to get there and what to pack, to the best places to stay, eat, and explore. Let’s head into the heart of Georgia’s wild highlands.
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Planning a trip to Georgia?
Here’s what you need to know:
PACKING: Georgia uses plug Type C (grab a multi-way travel adaptor). If visiting in winter, you’ll need a warm coat, thermal layers, and snow-proof shoes, especially outside of Tbilisi. And, of course, a good book.
TRANSPORT: Download Bolt for taxis, which are very cheap by European standards. The metro and buses are simple to use (you can use a contactless card). Outside of Tbilisi, trains are efficient and reliable, though marshrutka minivans are more popular and cheaper. For private transfers, book with GoTrip, or find car rentals through Booking.com.
PHONE: I got a local sim card with MyMagti with 30 days unlimited data cost for GEL44. I often used this to hotspot and work.
MONEY: Most ATMs charge for international cards, including Bank of Georgia, but sometimes you can find some that don’t. Contactless is widely accepted, but cash is good to have on hand. For transfers, a local bank account is needed.
LANGUAGE: The younger generation speaks English well, but the older generation speaks Russian. I never had any major issue (Google Translate helps).
IS GEORGIA SAFE? I visited during the recent protests and felt perfectly safe. Keep up-to-date with news and consider what you’re comfortable with.
Where is Mestia?
Mestia is a remote mountain town located in the Svaneti region of northwestern Georgia, nestled high in the Greater Caucasus Mountains at around 1,500 meters (4,900 ft) above sea level. It’s part of the Samegrelo-Zemo Svaneti region and serves as the cultural and administrative hub of Upper Svaneti.
What is Mestia Known For?
- Svan Towers (Koshki): Medieval stone defensive towers unique to the Svaneti region.
- Incredible mountain landscapes and alpine scenery.
- Svan culture and language — a unique Georgian highlander culture with its own traditions, food, and ancient polyphonic music.
- Winter sports: Mestia is one of Georgia’s best skiing destinations, with the Hatsvali and Tetnuldi ski resorts nearby.
Read Next: I learned to ski on my trip to Mestia! Read my beginner’s guide to skiing in Georgia here.
Why Visit Mestia?
- Authentic, off-the-beaten-path adventure.
- Stunning winter scenery with snowy peaks, fairy-tale villages, and frozen rivers.
- Fewer crowds and way more affordable than other European ski spots.
- Unique blend of history, culture, and adventure.
How to Get to Mestia
From Tbilisi:
Flight:
During ski season, daily flights operate from Tbilisi (Natakhtari Airfield) to Mestia with Vanilla Sky for GEL 90 (~$32), including a free transfer from the city center to the small airport about 30 minutes away.
The flight is easy to book online and offers breath-taking views of the Caucasus Mountains—worth it for the scenery alone. However, weather-related cancellations are common, often with little notice, and delays can stretch over several days. It’s a beautiful but unreliable option, so be sure to have a backup plan.
Minibus (Marshrutka):
Leaves from Tbilisi’s Didube Station, but it’s a long ride (~8-10 hours). They can be uncomfortable and, in winter, often face delays due to snow—at times requiring roadside shovel work to clear the way, especially once you’re in Svaneti.
Private car or rental:
Best for flexibility, but be ready for snowy, mountainous roads. Rent a car if you’re confident driving in snow, or book a private transfer with a local driver through GoTrip.
Tip: Need something to do for the 10-hour journey? Download an audiobook! I made great headway on The Eighth Life by Nino Haratischwili during this trip. Check out more books about Georgia here, how to listen to audiobooks on Spotify here, as well as the best ways to get e-books and audiobooks for free here.
From Kutaisi:
- Minibuses or taxis run via Zugdidi.
- Private transfer is more comfortable in winter conditions.
To break up the trip, take a minibus to Kutaisi, then continue by train the next day (note that Zugdidi trains don’t run in winter).
Things to See and Do in Mestia (Winter Edition)
Skiing/Snowboarding:
Hatsvali Ski Resort: Just 8 km from Mestia, with a gondola from the edge of town.
Tetnuldi Ski Resort: Bigger and higher, about 30 km away. Great powder and breath-taking views.
Explore Svan Towers & Old Mestia:
Walk around the town and step into medieval history with centuries-old towers and stone homes.
Svaneti Museum of History and Ethnography:
Artifacts including medieval manuscripts, icons, weapons, and Svan cultural items.
Day Trips:
Ushguli (if roads are open): One of the highest inhabited villages in Europe, absolutely magical in winter.
Watch Dede at Pub & Cinema DEDE
This award-winning 2017 film, directed by Mariam Khatchvani, is about a young woman trying to defy traditions in a remote and isolated Svaneti community. It plays several times a day at Pub & Cinema DEDE (tickets cost GEL20).
Lamproba Festival (February):
If you time your visit well, you can witness Lamproba Festival, a pre-Christian festival unique to the Svaneti region, During this time, families gather in graveyards at night to light bonfires, eat and drink together, and honour their ancestors.
Where to Stay in Mestia
Here are a few recommended options:
Local guesthouses came highly recommended, but I found the one I booked to be a little too cold and not well-equipped enough for my 10-day trip (even though it was lovely and the owner was very sweet), so I changed to an apart-hotel instead. It depends on your needs (e.g. I needed to work online) and level of comfort.
Where & What to Eat in Mestia
Must-try local dishes:
- Kubdari: Svan meat-filled bread.
- Chvishtari: Cornbread with cheese.
- Tashmijabi: A creamy mashed potato and cheese dish.
- Svan salt: Used in everything; mix of garlic, herbs, and spices.
Where to eat:
Here are my favourite restaurants:
- Blue Mountains: delicious dishes with a river view
- Café Laila: local favourite – gets very busy
- Vichnashi: small local place with delicious food
- Lile: great food and drink, plus live music
- Twin Peaks: modern spins on traditional dishes
- KRK Bar: amazing cocktails
Tips for Visiting Mestia in Winter
- ❄️ Dress warmly: Layers, waterproof boots, and thermal gear are essential.
- 🏔 Roads can be icy or closed: Check road conditions and weather daily.
- 💸 Bring cash: ATMs can be unreliable and many places are cash-only or prefer cash.
- 📅 Book in advance during holidays: Popular spots fill up around New Year and Orthodox Christmas.
- 🧭 Hire local guides: For safety on hikes, Ushguli trips, or snow activities.
Where to Go After Mestia?
- Zugdidi: Stop at the Dadiani Palace and explore this charming lowland town.
- Kutaisi: Historic city with caves, monasteries, and thermal baths.
- Batumi (if you’re craving the sea): Subtropical coast on the Black Sea, mild even in winter.
- Back to Tbilisi: Wrap up your Georgian adventure with wine, nightlife, and historic sites.
My Experience of Mestia in Winter
Mestia in winter feels like stepping into a snow-globe filled with ancient towers, warm homes, and wild peaks. Whether you’re skiing, hiking, or just soaking up the remote magic of Svaneti, it’s a beautiful place to spend a week or so.
Travel Essentials
Here are the websites and services I personally use and recommend.
FLIGHTS: The best deals can be found on Skyscanner, Google Flights and Kiwi (learn more about Kiwi travel hacking here).
TRAVEL INSURANCE: I recommend World Nomads for travel insurance because you can purchase once you’re already overseas and you can easily extend your policy. For digital nomads, I recommend and personally use Genki (learn more about Genki digital nomad health insurance here).
E-SIM: For travel in Europe, I use an e-sim with GoMobile, which is a provider based in Malta, but you need to be there to set it up.
ACCOMMODATION: I use Booking.com for hotels and Airbnb for apartments. For Colivings, I usually book privately, but Coliving.com is a good place to start.
THINGS TO DO: I use Viator or Get Your Guide for booking day trips, city tours and other activities, though I often check reviews on TripAdvisor too.
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