literary guide to kutaisi

Mini Travel Guide to Kutaisi, The City of Literature

Kutaisi is a city rich in history, culture, and natural beauty. While it’s known for its quaint city centre and lush landscapes, it also has a long literary legacy and was awarded the title of UNESCO Literary City in 2023.

From publishing houses and periodic literary magazines to quaint bookshops and cosy literary cafes, Kutaisi offers a deliciously bookish experience for those passionate about literature. (However, there’s plenty of other things to do if you’re not a bookworm.)

Here’s a mini travel guide to Kutaisi, focusing on its literary side, including notable writers, monuments, bookshops, things to see and do, and more:

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Planning a trip to Georgia?

Here’s what you need to know:

PACKING: Georgia uses plug Type C (grab a multi-way travel adaptor). If visiting in winter, you’ll need a warm coat, thermal layers, and snow-proof shoes, especially outside of Tbilisi. And, of course, a good book.

TRANSPORT: Download Bolt for taxis, which are very cheap by European standards. The metro and buses are simple to use (you can use a contactless card). Outside of Tbilisi, trains are efficient and reliable, though marshrutka minivans are more popular and cheaper. For private transfers, book with GoTrip, or find car rentals through Booking.com.

PHONE: I got a local sim card with MyMagti with 30 days unlimited data cost for GEL44. I often used this to hotspot and work.

MONEY: Most ATMs charge for international cards, including Bank of Georgia, but sometimes you can find some that don’t. Contactless is widely accepted, but cash is good to have on hand. For transfers, a local bank account is needed.

LANGUAGE: The younger generation speaks English well, but the older generation speaks Russian. I never had any major issue (Google Translate helps).

IS GEORGIA SAFE? I visited during the recent protests and felt perfectly safe. Keep up-to-date with news and consider what you’re comfortable with.


Notable Writers from Kutaisi

Kutaisi has birthed many talented writers who have contributed to Georgian literature. Some of the most celebrated include:

Galaktion Tabidze

One of the most prominent Georgian poets of the 20th century, Galaktion was born in the village of Kveda, near Kutaisi. His works, often marked by themes of longing and love, are considered classics of Georgian literature.

Galaktion Tabidze Poems book with a croissant and coffee

Tabidze’s poetry reflects his deep connection to his homeland, and he remains an enduring figure in Georgia’s literary legacy.

The Blue Horns

Kutaisi is also known for the famous group of Symbolist poets and writers called The Blue Horns (Tsisferkantselebi). Formed in 1916, the groups was comprised of Titsian Tabidze, Paolo Iashvili, Valerian Gafrindashvili, Kolau Nadiradze, Shalva Apkhaidze, Nikolo Mitsishvili, Aleksandre Arsenishvili, Sandro Tsirekidze, Giorgi Leonidze, Sergo Kldiashvili and Shalva Karmeli (Gogiashvili).

The Blue Horns published their first literary magazine “Dreamy Nyamores” in 1919. Sadly, many members of the group fell victim to Stalin’s political repressions.

Other Writers

There are so many other famous Kutaisi writers and I won’t pretend to be familiar with all the names, but some notable creatives include David Kldiashvili (known as the “Cervantes of Georgia), Niko Lortkipanidze (one of the first modernist Georgian writers) and Grigol Robakidze (who helped introduce modernist avant-garde trends to Georgian literature)

Read Next: For more on Georgian writers, read 23 Thought-Provoking Books About Georgia (the Country)


Monuments Dedicated to Writers

Kutaisi is home to several statues and landmarks that honour its literary heritage:

Galaktioni Statue

One of the most iconic monuments in Kutaisi, the statue of Galaktion Tabidze stands in the heart of the city. This statue commemorates the poet who revolutionized Georgian poetry in the 20th century. It’s a spot where many literary enthusiasts pause to reflect on his contribution to Georgian culture.

Statues of Blue Horns Publishers

You can see statues of Paolo Iashvili and Titian Tabidze, the publishers of The Blue Horns’ “Dreamy Nyamores” magazine just outside the park at Veriko Anjaparidze Square.

Boris Gaponov Statue

Another tribute to Kutaisi’s literary history, this statue commemorates the works of Boris Gaponov, a Jewish translator who translated The Knight in the Panther’s Skin (Georgia’s national epic) into Hebrew. His statue can be found near the city’s synagogue.

Kutaisi Street Art

Kutaisi also has some interesting works of street art scattered about town, including a few literary-inspired pieces:


Kutaisi Library

Established in 1873, Kutaisi Ilia Chavchavadze Public Library is one of the oldest libraries in the country.

Housed in a beautiful historical building, the library is a treasure trove of books that span a wide range of subjects, including Georgian literature, history, and culture.


Bookshops in Kutaisi

For those looking to take a piece of Kutaisi’s literary culture home, the city is home to several beloved bookshops:

Santa Esperanza

A charming independent bookstore that offers a curated selection of both Georgian and international works (there’s also a branch in Tbilisi).

There’s a small English-language section, but there’s a great selection of books there, including Georgian writers.

Biblusi

As part of a well-known Georgian chain, Biblusi offers a variety of contemporary and classic books in both Georgian and foreign languages.

This location is particularly nice because it houses the Piatto Café (see below).

Book Market

Located in the heart of Kutaisi, next to the Gala Restaurant (also see below), this market is a perfect for those seeking vintage and second-hand books.

You can browse through a dusty selection of Georgian and Russian books, and if you’re lucky you might spot a odd book in English or German too.


Bookish Cafes and Restaurants

Kutaisi also boasts a selection of cosy spots where literature lovers can relax and enjoy a good book:

Piatto

A popular café and restaurant in Kutaisi, Piatto offers an inviting atmosphere for readers, replete with book-embedded tables and a book chandelier!

Piatto provides the perfect setting to sip a drink while flipping through the pages of your favourite book.

Gala

Another bookish offering in Kutaisi, Gala is a chic restaurant dedicated to the poet Galaktion Tabidze.

His poems can be found on each table and the décor includes prints of his doodles and self-portraits. Even if you’re not a poetry fan, the food here is fantastic!

For non-book-related offerings, I recommend Sisters for the ambiance, Palaty for the food and drink, and Gallery Terrace for the views.


Other Things to Do in Kutaisi

While Kutaisi offers a rich literary scene, the city is also filled with historical sites, natural wonders, and cultural landmarks to explore.

Walking Around Town

I really enjoyed just wandering around town, taking pictures of street art, market stalls, the picturesque riverside, and interesting moments.

For more in-depth insights, you could also opt for a walking tour:

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Bagrati Cathedral

Kutaisi is home to a number of must-see landmarks, including the Bagrati Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and the ancient Gelati Monastery, known for its stunning frescoes and architectural beauty. Both sites offer a glimpse into the city’s history and artistic legacy.

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Canyons and Caves

If you’re a fan of nature, don’t miss the opportunity to explore Prometheus Cave, a magnificent cave system located just outside of Kutaisi. The cave features spectacular stalactites and stalagmites, along with an underground river.

For outdoor enthusiasts, the Okatse Canyon offers breath-taking views and a scenic walkway that’s perfect for a day of hiking.

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Tskaltubo

Just a short drive from Kutaisi, Tskaltubo is known for its famous mineral hot springs.

The resort town is perfect for those seeking relaxation in nature, and its Soviet-era spa buildings (some working and some eerily abandoned) are incredibly interesting to visit if just for the architecture.

For more in-depth information about Tskaltubo, I recommend Wander-Lush’s The Ultimate Guide to Tskaltubo, Georgia.

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Where to Stay in Kutaisi

Kutaisi offers a range of accommodation options, from budget-friendly guesthouses to more luxurious hotels. Some recommendations include:

  • Airbnb: We stayed in a cute Airbnb in the city centre, not far from Sisters Restaurant and the Kutaisi Library.
  • Doli: We grabbed breakfast here one morning (pictured) and it was so good! This boutique hotel is also very central and has an outdoor pool that would be amazing in the summer months.
  • Tskaltubo Hotels: If you’re visiting the nearby resort town of Tskaltubo, there are various spa hotels and wellness centres that offer therapeutic treatments and relaxation options for very reasonable prices. I would definitely book a few nights at here next time I visit.

How to Get to Kutaisi

Kutaisi is well-connected to the rest of Georgia, making it easily accessible for visitors:

By Air

The Kutaisi International Airport (KUT) serves as the city’s main gateway, with several low-cost airlines offering flights to and from destinations across Europe and the Caucasus. The airport is located about 20 minutes from the city centre.

By Bus/Minibus

Kutaisi is a major transport hub in western Georgia, with minibuses (marshrutkas) operating between the city and Tbilisi, Batumi, and other regions of Georgia. The bus station is well-connected, making it easy to travel by road, though marshrutkas are not the most comfortable mode of transport.

By Train

Kutaisi is also connected to other Georgian cities by train. The Kutaisi railway station offers routes to Tbilisi and other parts of Georgia, providing a scenic and comfortable travel option. I travelled by train from Tbilisi and the train was very comfortable; the journey takes around 4 hours.


Kutaisi Literary Guide

Whether you’re strolling through its historic streets, exploring its literary landmarks, or enjoying a quiet moment with a book at one of its charming cafés, Kutaisi has a lot to offers visitors. I only stayed a few days, but the city left a lasting impression on me.

Have you visited Kutaisi and do you have any recommendations to add to the above? Let me know in the comments below.

More Fantastic Books & Where to Find Them

For more of what to read where, check out my full Travel Books Guide, filled with book recommendations for different destinations, the most beautiful bookstores around the world, tips on how to get the best deals on audiobooks and e-books, as well as more literary travel.

Travel Essentials

Here are the websites and services I personally use and recommend. 

FLIGHTS: The best deals can be found on Skyscanner, Google Flights and Kiwi (learn more about Kiwi travel hacking here).

TRAVEL INSURANCE: I recommend World Nomads for travel insurance because you can purchase once you’re already overseas and you can easily extend your policy. For digital nomads, I recommend and personally use Genki (learn more about Genki digital nomad health insurance here).

E-SIM: For travel in Europe, I use an e-sim with GoMobile, which is a provider based in Malta, but you need to be there to set it up.

ACCOMMODATION: I use Booking.com for hotels and Airbnb for apartments. For Colivings, I usually book privately, but Coliving.com is a good place to start.

THINGS TO DO: I use Viator or Get Your Guide for booking day trips, city tours and other activities, though I often check reviews on TripAdvisor too.

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