The Shakespeare and Company Bookstore in Paris is a must-visit destination for book lovers, history enthusiasts, and literary romantics alike.
One of the most famous bookshops in the world, Shakespeare and Company has been on my bookish bucket list for a long time, so I was really excited to visit while I was in Paris this summer for the Olympics.
Here’s everything you need to know about Shakespeare and Company, what to expect on a visit, as well as my thoughts on experiencing this iconic book shop in person.
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Disclaimer: this post contains affiliate links. This means I earn a small commission if you choose to make a purchase using this link, but at no cost to you.
Why is Shakespeare and Company famous?
The current Shakespeare and Company Bookstore was founded in 1951 by American expatriate George Whitman. It has become one of the world’s most famous independent bookstores, following in the footsteps of Sylvia Beach’s original Shakespeare and Company, which opened in 1919 and was a hub for writers like James Joyce, Ernest Hemingway, and F. Scott Fitzgerald.
“I created this bookstore like a man would write a novel, building each room like a chapter, and I like people to open the door the way they open a book, a book that leads into a magic world in their imaginations.” – George Whitman
Since its establishment, the modern-day Shakespeare and Company has continued to welcome readers, writers, and dreamers from across the globe.
Today, the bookstore is run by George’s daughter Sylvia Whitman and the brand expanded to include a café, podcast, literary festival, writing contest, and publishing house.
The Tumbleweeds
Shakespeare and Company is also known for its Tumbleweed programme. You can apply to stay in residency in the bookshop building for a week to a month, working on writing and/or reading projects.
Past Tumbleweeds include Ethan Hawke, Geoffrey Rush, Darren Aronofsky, and more.
“Shakespeare is the happy hunting ground of all minds that have lost their balance.” – James Joyce, Ulysses
Fun fact: Original Shakespeare and Company owner Sylvia Beach was the first to publish James Joyce’s Ulysses, when no one else would.
Shakespeare and Company Location in Paris
37 rue de la Bûcherie, 75005 Paris, France
The nearest Métro stations are Saint-Michel or Cité (Line 4), and Cluny La Sorbonne (Line 10). You can also arrive by RER (Line B or C, Saint-Michel Notre Dame) or, of course, walk.
Other Shakespeare and Company locations
Although I’ve seen people asking about London and New York, the Shakespeare and Company bookstore is a one-of-a-kind location. While many cities have famous bookstores, Shakespeare and Company exists only in Paris.
Shakespeare and Company Hours
Bookshop
- Monday to Wednesday from 10:00 to 20:00
- Thursday to Saturday from 10:00 to 21:00
- Sunday from 12:00 to 19:00
Due to the size of the store, there is a limit to the number of visitors allowed in, which means you may have to queue.
Even though it was busy, I didn’t have to queue, but I read in reviews from those who did that the queue moves very quickly.
Cafe
- Open from Monday to Wednesday from 9:30 to 19:00
- Thursday and Friday from 9:30 to 22:00
- Saturday and Sunday from 9:30 to 20:00
Shakespeare and Company Photos
As you may have spotted, I only have photos of the exterior of the Shakespeare and Company bookstore. Taking photos of the interior is not allowed; there are signs and staff to remind you.
Shakespeare and Company Café
After losing yourself in the many bookshelves, you can relax at the Shakespeare and Company Café, located right next to the bookstore.
Offering an array of organic, locally-sourced food and beverages, the café is the ideal spot to sit back and enjoy a cup of coffee with your favourite book.
Shakespeare and Company Merchandise
The store also prints its own branded editions, offering a souvenir from your visit—a Shakespeare and Company book stamped with their emblem.
In addition to books, the store offers an assortment of literary-themed merchandise.
Shakespeare and Company tote bag
A popular item is the Shakespeare and Company tote bag, adorned with the bookstore’s logo. It’s perfect for carrying your newfound reads as you explore Paris.
“I like this place and could willingly waste my time in it” – William Shakespeare, As You like It. Speaking of Shakespeare, read more Shakespeare quotes about travel here.
Visiting Shakespeare and Company Paris
As much as I loved checking this iconic book shop off my list, I have to say the experience fell a little flat for me. It felt more like I was visiting a tourist trap than a genuine bookshop.
In some ways, Shakespeare and Company has has done well to retain so much of its original intentions and integrity, such as the continuation of the Tumbleweed programme, hosting literary events, as well as enforcing rules about photos, filming and social media… and I have to admit that the bookstore itself is impressive.
The labyrinthine interior is packed with well-worn bookshelves, cosy reading corners, and a diverse collection of both new and second-hand books.
On the other hand, having to queue to enter a bookstore is not my cup of tea. Inside the store was very crowded and I couldn’t truly relax. I looked for a French/Parisian read that I could buy as a souvenir, but the store was too busy to properly peruse and I felt a bit like I was on a conveyor belt, ticking a box, and getting my souvenir stamp with a crowd of others.
Perhaps I was unfortunate in terms of when I visited (I mean, it was the middle of summer, the Olympics were on, and it was the middle of the day), so I would definitely go back and try again. I’d also love the opportunity to partake in the Tumbleweed programme one day, so fingers crossed!
Other bookstores in Paris
Of course, Shakespeare and Company is not the only bookstore in Paris!
Librairie Galignani
I also had my eye on Librairie Galignani, which has been operating since 1801, but it was closed for the Olympic period:
The Bouquinistes of Paris
One thing I loved about Paris was the the Bouquinistes! The Bouquinistes of Paris are iconic booksellers along the Seine River, selling second-hand and antique books from distinctive green boxes that line the riverbanks.
Stretching from Quai du Louvre to Pont Marie on the Right Bank, and from Quai de la Tournelle to Quai Voltaire on the Left Bank, these stalls have been a Parisian tradition for over 500 years.
In 1992, the Bouquinistes and the Seine’s banks were declared a UNESCO World Heritage site, symbolizing Paris’ unique literary culture.
Books about Shakespeare and Company
If you want to get really meta, you could even buy a book about Shakespeare and Company from Shakespeare and Company!
If you’re not currently in Paris, I’ve included Amazon links to each recommended book below, but you can also see my post on where to get e-books and audiobooks for free for alternatives, including independent options. (Check out how to gift Kindle books and how to gift Audible for digital versions.)
1. Shakespeare and Company by Sylvia Beach
Who better to tell the story of this unique bookstore than the original owner herself? Shakespeare and Company by Sylvia Beach is a memoir that immerses readers in the vibrant literary world of the 1920s Parisian Left Bank, where Beach hosted many of the era’s most celebrated writers.
Through her personal anecdotes, Beach shares her experiences with iconic figures such as James Joyce, Ernest Hemingway, Scott Fitzgerald, and Gertrude Stein, painting a vivid picture of the artistic spirit that flourished at her famous bookstore, Shakespeare and Company.
Beach provides a unique perspective on a pivotal time in literary history and her bookstore served as a cultural beacon for writers of the Lost Generation.
2. Shakespeare and Company, Paris: A History of the Rag & Bone Shop of the Heart by Krista Halverson
Shakespeare and Company, Paris by Krista Halverson is a richly detailed account of the iconic Parisian bookstore, tracing its evolution from its founding by Sylvia Beach in 1919 to its enduring legacy in the literary world.
3. Sylvia Beach and the Lost Generation: A History of Literary Paris in the Twenties and Thirties by Noel Riley Fitch
Sylvia Beach and the Lost Generation by Noël Riley Fitch offers an insightful exploration of the pivotal role Sylvia Beach played in shaping the literary landscape of Paris during the 1920s and 1930s. Through Beach’s story, Fitch sheds light on the interconnectedness of art, friendship, and the transformative power of literature during a dynamic era in history.
4. The Shakespeare and Company Book of Interviews by Adam Biles and Sylvia Whitman
The Shakespeare and Company Book of Interviews is a compilation that features a series of engaging conversations with notable authors who have visited or been influenced by the iconic Parisian bookstore, Shakespeare and Company.
Curated by the bookstore’s current owner, this collection includes interviews with celebrated writers such as Allen Ginsberg, Michael Ondaatje, and David Mitchell.
The book provides insight into the authors’ creative processes, their experiences in Paris, and the profound impact that Shakespeare and Company has had on their literary journeys.
5. Time Was Soft There: A Paris Sojourn at Shakespeare & Co. by Jeremy Mercer
Time Was Soft There by Jeremy Mercer is a memoir chronicling the author’s unique experience living and working at the famed Shakespeare and Company bookstore in Paris.
After fleeing his tumultuous life as a crime reporter in Canada, Mercer finds refuge at the bookstore, where owner George Whitman welcomes writers and artists to stay in exchange for helping out around the shop.
The book offers an intimate glimpse into the unconventional community of dreamers, writers, and wanderers who call the bookstore home. Mercer reflects on his own personal growth during his time there, while also portraying Whitman’s eccentric personality and the bohemian lifestyle that defines the bookstore.
Have you visited Shakespeare and Company in Paris? Let me know your experience and thoughts in the comments below.
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