Last September, I arrived in Ciudad de Mexico with no real knowledge about Mexican history or culture. However, I just had to look around at the glittering displays of green, white and red to know something was going on and indeed it was – I had stumbled into celebrating Mexico Independence Day in Mexico City!
September is particularly fun time to be in the city, but I wish I’d been (just a little) more prepared on what to expect. So, here’s how to celebrate independence in Mexico during this patriotic month, including a bit on Mexican history, things to see and do and – most importantly – what to eat.
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Facts about Mexico’s Independence Day
If, like me, your American history is a bit of a void, then here are a few handy facts about Mexico’s independence that will save you a Google and Wikipedia spree:
What is Mexican Independence Day?
Día de la Independencia (Mexican Independence Day) is an annual holiday in Mexico that celebrates the anniversary of the “Cry of Independence” – when Miguel Hidalgo called for independence in a rousing speech in the town of Dolores, igniting the war against the Spanish. The speech is also known as el Grito de Dolores (the Cry of Dolores).
When is Mexican Independence Day?
Día de la Independencia is celebrated on 16th September (Septiembre 16), which is the date of Hidalgo’s 1810 speech, rather than the day that Mexico became independent. Mexico wasn’t declared independent until 28th September 1821 (and Hildago was captured and executed in 1811, poor guy).
If Mexico’s independence is celebrated in September, what is Cinco de Mayo?
My question exactly when I arrived in Mexico City to decorations and celebrations (told you my American history was sub-par).
Cinco de May (5th May) is the date that the Mexican army defeated the French at the Battle of Puebla in 1862. However, in the United States, the date has taken on a whole new significance and is used to celebrate Mexican-American culture (and interestingly isn’t really celebrated in Mexico other than the odd historical reenactment).
How to Celebrate Mexican Independence Day in Mexico City
Contrary to what I was expecting, Mexico’s celebration of independence was not limited to one day. From my arrival in Mexico City at the start of September, right up until the end of the month, the city was lit up in green, white and red (the colours of the Mexican flag) and street vendors were selling decorations, flag-themed trinkets and costume pieces.
What to See and Do
I tell you, nothing is as bizarre as watching a Mexican dress up as a Mexican for Mexican Independence Day. By this, I mean seeing local people buy a fake moustache, a sombrero and a poncho and pose for photos like, “Look at me! I’m a Mexican!”
I opted not to partake in such dress-up opportunities (hello, cultural appropriation), so instead I painted the coloured stripes of the Mexican flag on my face and enjoyed a bit of mariachi music at a local restaurant.
If you happen to be in Mexico City on 15th September, one thing you absolutely have to witness is the patriotic 11pm re-enactment of the Cry of Dolores. Re-enactments occur across the country, but the one in Mexico City has particular pomp and ceremony, as the president comes out on to the balcony of the National Palace and speaks to crowds of thousands in the Zocalo main square.
Then, there’s a fun call and response when the president makes a statement and the crowd echoes “VIVA!” ending with a huge “VIVA MEXICO!” and a deafening firework display from the cathedral.
Tip: the Zocalo gets super-crowded (and claustrophobic) and there are a lot of annoying pop performances and “VIVA MEXICO!” shouts from presenters and performers in the hours leading up to the speech (I found the atmosphere somewhat akin to Eurovision), so get there as late as you can without missing the main event, or go early to try and get a seat at a restaurant or bar that overlooks the square.
Then, continue the party as many restaurants, bars and nightclubs celebrate Noche Mexicana until the early hours.
What to Eat
The national dish for Mexican Independence is chiles en nogada, which was supposedly a dish prepared by the nuns of Puebla just after the cry for independence. Whether or not the story is true, it’s pretty tasty and features the colours of the Mexican flag.
The chilis are filled with meat and spices, a walnut cream sauce is poured over the top and the dish is sprinkled with pomegranate seeds and parsley. Even better washed down with a “Mexican flag shot” of lime juice, tequila and sangria!
Where to Stay
By pure chance, I had booked a hostel in the Centro Historico area of Mexico City, the aptly named Mexico City Hostel – a literal stone’s throw from the Zocalo. However, I much preferred staying in the pretty Condesa district later during my stay, which was much quieter and more peaceful, though a fair journey from the Centro Historico.
Viva Mexico! Celebrating Mexico’s Independence Day
As a descendant of the colonising British empire, I don’t have much opportunity to celebrate Independence Days, so experiencing Mexico’s was an enlightening adventure and gave me a much-needed introduction to the country and its history at the start of my three-month stint there.
Despite my time in CDMX being slightly interrupted by two earthquakes, I really enjoyed my three weeks in the capital and felt especially lucky to have stayed in the city during September to see the Independence Day celebrations.
For more Mexican adventures, read my guide to beautiful Lake Bacalar, the best cenotes in Mexico and Mexico City’s best bookstores for books in English.
Omg I’d love to see a Mexican dress up as a Mexican Great post!
Viva México! Mexico is one of my favorite countries but I’ve never had the privilege to experience it during their Independence Day. I would love to witness all this in person.